Weekend in Boradigah

I was invited to go for the weekend to Boradigah, a village nearby where my host mom grew up. Her 65 year old mother still has a house there. A big house with a large yard where she raised 5 sons and her only daughter. Her husband died about 25 years ago when my host mother was only 5 years old. I don't know how she managed, but her sons were already young adults and they have become successful businessmen – 4 in Moscow and 1 in Baku.

Host mom, Georgie and Igbal and I were driven to Boradigah by host dad in a little black Lada. I had taken this trip in the past via marsrutka and it took about 30 minutes. Georgie's dad: 10 minutes! What a ride. The family claimed he drove them in this car straight from Moscow without sleeping in a day! They laughed and told me not to worry. He dropped us off at nana's house and returned to Digah to run his shop, feed the chickens and look after the house.

I was amazed to see the size of nana's house. It is well-maintained and the yard includes a fountain plus several buildings where she used to make bread in tandir ovens and also preserved fruits. There was also a new but “extra” Mercedes with a dead battery parked near the house. Nana flew back from Moscow only last week, where she had been for 5 months. (Don't ask me why people live there in Winter but she was with her sons!) We needed to “open up” the house and a neighbor woman came over to help wash the paved yard.

While we were visiting an older woman stopped buy with a shopping bag full of things to sell. This reminded me 1950's America when peddlers stopped at farms with their wares. In her bag she had underwear, tablecloths, fabric, a dress, duvet cover and some curtains. Of course she was offered tea and we had a good time visiting when she marveled to see an American in Azerbaijan.

I spent some time relaxing in the yard and trying to finish reading The Round House on my kindle. The boys were up in an alchan tree eating many of those tart little green fruits. They also showed me the numerous fruit trees planted years ago: pear, black cherries, apple, guava, date, persimmon, lemon, and of course pomegranate. While I was reading, nana and Valentine (my host mom) made dolma and fried fish to go with the yogurt, tomatoes and cucumbers that are standard fare for supper.

They prepared a very comfortable bed for me upstairs in a room that also has a seating area, sink and stovetop. I had the upper floor with 4 rooms, toilet, and a large corridor to myself.

The biggest snafu was on my part. I forgot to bring along the battery charger for my camera, so I was only able to take some pictures when I first arrived. I also discovered that my data card did not work in my computer so I was unable to access the internet.

Saturday morning, nana fried piles of pirogies for breakfast. I also drank some raw milk which I had not done before while living in Azerbaijan. It was one of those moments when I didn't want to offend my hostess – unlike being able to refuse alcohol. One of nana's granddaughters came over to visit and I found out she remembers PCV Jade who taught at #2 school in Boradigah. Her name is Gulnur and she is currently living with her other nana while her father works in Moscow. She has one more year of school and needs to finish in Azerbaijan in order to be accepted in college in Baku. She said she wants to become a banker and travel.

After breakfast, I walked to a small store with Georgie and Igbal, but upon our return we were greeted by a foul smell in the yard. Nana had hired 2 butchers to come over and kill a sheep. The carcass was hanging and the innards were on the ground. I scurried past and laughed to myself about nana fulfilling the biblical story of “killing a fatted calf.” I thought we were having chicken and plov for supper, but it'll be fresh liver and potatoes.

As I write this it is about 2pm and any moment I'll be called to lunch. Again, I am feeling like I'm on a very interesting vacation: warm weather, sight-seeing, meal service, and a very comfy bed. Next week I'm back to teaching English.